Even if you use a completely non-transparent black powder as a top coat, you will see the dormant through it. Isnt it like a fusion of chemical of both coat thag give the final color ? I am going to be powder coating bicycle frames. Have you looked into a low cure powder for your specific job? I'm sure the shop will already have their equipment set up and dialed in so you can skip over those parts but focus on the articles that talk about techniques and tips when spraying, masking, cleaning, monitoring temps in the oven, etc. I am looking to place a logo on a set of brake calipers that I will be powder coating I was hoping for some opinions.
Thanks for the compliment on the site, I also started powder coating as a way to improve my car build. Thanks for being a dedicated reader. Very nice site & thanks for your work, I have a couple of question- We already have a large oven (20'x12'x10') & a Parker Ionics gun setup and I'm looking to build a smaller oven for small piece work, planning to follow the oven build that you posted with a few 'custom' additions, do you have a schematic of the way the heating elements are wired? Depending on the type of paint on the bike currently, sandblasting may not be as fast as an abrasive disc on the wide open areas, but if you plan on powder coating the frame, it needs sandblasted anyways. If you don't have the equipment to easily strip the part then you can attempt to sand down the imperfections and start over. New to powdercoating, I want coat my bike's gas tank as my first project. Since raised areas are easier to mask off than recessed areas, I'll take your advice by making sure to apply colors that bleed through lighter colors last.
So i lay down white then use female stencil for the red logo. this is great news!Thanks so much for the tips Sean.
Thanks for taking the time to post these.
I am just starting out and this site has been a huge help. Is there any other ways around this that i'll still be able to apply my base coat and translucent coat?Thanks!Eric. Thanks for reading! As long as it is stored correctly, it is said to last up to a year, however it I have some powders that are several years old that I use on stuff around the garage and there have been no issues with it. The entire object to be powder coated must fit inside of an oven. The important thing is that when you do make a mistake, that you figure out what happened and how to prevent it in the future. I'm not sure if you mean a cabinet or the sandblasting gun itself. Any suggestions on a process to provide coverage of the hardware. Thanks, Rob...btw, your site doesn't show article links on my mobile. I will be writing for the site again soon so make sure to check back. Is there a reason ? Answering unanswered questions is exactly what I set out to do. Thanks for the nice explantation !
Your site is very well organized and very detailed. However, for it to be a full cure, you must let it cool down completely after the initial bake in the oven. But with enough trial and error, you should be able to pull it off.
At this temp, the powder is more gel like, it won't flake and it leaves a very nice edge. Also, multiple colors can be applied onto one part to achieve a two-tone look. Pulling the part at 200 degrees F and pulling the masking off when the part cools down to around 180 degrees F will leave a nice defined line between the masked and unmasked areas. I'm sure when the tank reaches 400 it will affect the sealer. Hey, we sprayed a chrome base and let the chrome fully cure... Then we tried to do another coat of a diff color on top of the chrome a day later and the powder wouldn't stay covered in a few spots, it would fish eye or leave a small crater about 2mm circle in small areas here and there... Do you know what could be the reason for this? I would prefer a powder clear just to keep the wheel all done in powder, plus powder is easier and cheaper to spray than 2k clears. Any suggestions on how to achieve a matte brushed black aluminum look like this?http://www.signs.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Brushed-Aluminum-Blank-Metallic-Apperance-560x560.jpg. Ideally it should be stored between 60 and 80 degrees F and the humidity should be between 40%-60%. It is very hard to gauge how much powder is on the part when because of this and often results in way too much powder being on the part. It's leaving a shiny look around the rim after they are done baking. But it should be the same process too. NOTE: the parts that I am spraying are aluminum. 2. - Once the masking is removed, you can put the wheel in the oven and either cure it completely, following instructions for the 2nd powder color OR if you plan on using a clear coat, do another partial cure. I will have to make a new post soon now that I know people are still reading. The best way to do it is to strip the part and start over again. You are on the right track with what you suggested. Plotters can cut small detail, and 1/2" lettering should be readable. Where would I go to learn more about how much this would cost if I wanted to do it? Generally when you spray a wrinkle and you do not get the wrinkle effect, it means you need to spray it heavier. You may not realize, but these forums are owned by Caswell Inc, a world leader in hobby metal finishing supplies.
Not getting coverage on the heads of the hardware. I got busy with Christmas and I haven't had the time lately. Thank you so much!
Ground the piece and shoot the powder. You mention using vinyl stencils for logos. Is there any ways to get the smooth finishing without visible welding join line (between 2 aluminium sheet) ..Is there any putty special for powder coating.which can withstand the curing temperature, Hello Sean, I need to enlarge a hole in an aluminum outboard engine powder coated mounting bracket and would like to know if anyone has ever attempted to powder coat the edges of the enlarged hole, approx.