Shouldn't you isolate the outside sheet metal walls from the steel studs? Didn't see it, might have missed it, what was the total cost to build an oven that size start to finish?I am actually in the process of building my first oven right now. Aluminum should definitely make for a lighter oven, but once concern I might have, which may have already been addressed is how well aluminum conducts heat. There is a mounting plate at the base of the heating element. This page is an awesome resource for the beginner powder coater. Then mount it on a 4'x 8' trailer so i can be mobile. great article. This process is repeated on the inside of the door. I mean a normal guide that uses words like temperature.The process of decoding the instructions into usefull English is ridiculous. Thanks for the terrific article. I will follow your instructions and check out the link. I can't tell from any of your pictures but where is the thermocoupler opening in relation to the forced air holes? Just not understanding if the main power supply is 220/240 30amps how the lights and the blowers are going to work. It's okay to have a window to watch what's going on inside. The thermocouple in this oven is mounted halfway between the bottom and top of the oven. I am limited to 120v, 20 amp service, so I have chosen to go with a convenient albeit expensive finned ceramic strip heater around 2000 watts. Here's a dumb questions but those dimensions are inside or outer size of oven. I wanted something a little heavier Duty. Also you can sign up there and ask questions if you need more help. you oven don't have any exhaust hole, I wonder how many time take it cold down? It is never a bad idea to reinforce the door and hinge. If you can think of a sturdy way to do it, insulating the steel studs from the outside sheet metal might have some benefits. My country use220v, I can use your heating element like you? I want to be able to heat this room to at least 200F as quickly as possible and maintain the temperature for periods of time. A lot of powder coating ovens are built this way with the sheet metal joining right up to the studs and I have never heard of issues arising from it, most of them remain cool to the touch on the outside of the oven(to an extent, you can put your hand on them and not burn yourself). I have heard no complaints of the door sagging on this particular oven build but I have seen it brought up in the past. NIce thing about aluminum is you can easily get 5' wide sheet metal and is about 1/3 the weight. A 6ft wide door would put a lot of stress on the hinge side of the oven when opened. For a fee of course? Can someone help me determine how many elements and watts I would need in order to do this? I'm building one now... what is the size of the opening for the elements?

The size of oven I want to build is … I am using one shot mode vs cycle mode but when the timer ends no lights or sounds out of the warning light/buzzer. Is the wiring for the elements run through the floor base? I've been looking at buying an oven but a one the size I need is well beyond the current budget! Is your build 4 x 4 x 7 outside measurements ? I am curious to the size of the control box you started with as that is one part you did not have listed? I was thinking it needed high temp insulation and is not cheapthanksvery nice build. If my oven is 66"H x 28.5"D x 21"W, will two of the heating elements get me to 450 degrees? If the door were completely rectangular along with the opening and there was a very tiny gap, the door would not be able to open. Great how too. If you scroll up to this page where it says "Here you can see the layout of the 4 recessed heating elements along with the insulated panels mounted behind them. The rule of thumb is 100 to 150 watts of heating element per cubic foot of oven. It just seems like if you ever had to take it apart to repair something, drilling all the rivets out is extra work.

The thing is I'm not understanding the 120V/220V working together. Yes you are correct, if you look closely at the pics, you can see the the motor does not get covered with any insulation at all and that it extends out of the top of top panel. I was searching a kit like these. As it will mainly be for curing tubes, the dimensions are 2 feet deep by 2 feet high by 6 feet wide. I thought about the heat crawl also and I have some 1/4" sheet white nylon (cutting board grade) and we will rip 1" strips, glue them onto the steel stud and simply use a longer rivet. Flickr user j_tenkely wanted to do his own powder coating, so he bought a commercial powder-gun and built a custom oven in his garage. Also, my dimensions listed above is the "usable space" inside the oven. Thank you for the info! Now... not to beat a dead horse here .... but did you ever get around to making up a wiring diagram for this oven.... as built?

The primary difference is the mode of material movement from operation to operation. Looking at the pics. arranged vertically. how much does this oven wind up weighing? Heating elements are placed on the bottom of the oven because "heat rises". That would be 18 2000 watt heating elements. Thanks man! Thanks Sean! I thought it was necessary to have an exhaust fan to remove gasses that build up while curing. Click on links and buy or go to home depot. Can anyone help w a wiring diagram? I have a question on the access door.

Even 1" of duct board insulation would prevent the steel studs from thermally transferring the heat to the outside. For the oven to have the lights and fan, the wiring going into the oven must be a 3 wire + 1 ground wire. My oven is almost complete, modeled after this one.

Because of the circulating air in the oven, the temps don't vary much, so the location is less important. Good brands are FOTEK or Omega. I'm sure it can be done, but I wouldn't sacrifice the support that the sheet metal provides. According to the BTU calculator this should work, but someone with real world knowledge may say differently. Thanks again for the write up. This cycle continues until all the air in the oven is eventually at the same temperature. Fore more advice on building an oven that large, I would suggest you head over to the Caswell Plating Oven Building forums and start a thread there. One is a solid state relay and the other is a contactor.

My oven is 4x5x8 outside dimensions and 4 x 3200 W elements do just fine. Very complicated to make. Hope that helps! I will be adding an extra PID control and hi limit switch to ensure no over heating or fire can happen. I will be only powder coating my Steel flat cutting from my CNC Plasma cutting table.